The first is my middle-class Tudor clothing. For the past 6 years I have taken part in the Great Annual Recreation at Kentwell Hall, in Suffolk, UK. My first 4 were spent in the great kitchen, my 5th as a scrivener, and my 6th as housekeeper to the visiting gentry. Scrivening and housekeeping are a decided step up the social order from working in the kitchen, so I needed a suitable outfit. The year chosen last year was 1578.
The kirtle is khaki wool, with a stiffened bodice front, and it laces at the back. I used pelform as a substitute for buckram and it worked really well. It is worn over a linen smock and a linen petticoat. The gown is a soft, mid-grey wool. It fastens at the front with hooks and eyes. Lined with a fine linen, undyed. The sleeves are of high-quality black worsted wool. They are pinned to the short sleeves of the kirtle and the gown is worn over them.
Accessories: brown latchet shoes, linen hose, linen coif, linen ruff [pinned to gown neckline], black felt hat, belt. The ruff is not made entirely accurately - it's stacked box pleats rather than gathers. Mainly I did this because I find pleating far easier and quicker to do than gathering, but it has the added advantage of not needing to be starched to hold its shape. I also have some small wrist ruffs, but wasn't wearing them when this picture was taken.
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