HSM Challenge #2: Blue

Having missed out on Challenge #1, I wanted to make something I knew that I would finish, to help get me into the swing of things. I decided to make a muff base and cover. I had previously read other blog posts about the basic construction, so I gathered my shopping list and set to work.

I used Spoonflower to print some samples of 18thC mezzotints on satin, ordered half a metre of silk dupion in Wedgewood Blue from The Silk Route, and the rest of the stuff I needed was all to hand.

I used the cotton from an old hospital sheet as the base and made a square-ish tube from it, stitched together on 3 sides. I don't remember the specific measurements, but I was aiming for the smaller, neater muffs from the 1770s and 80s. I filled it with synthetic wadding as that was what I had, rolled it up, and stitched the last side up and joined it to the bottom edge at the same time.

Next was the muff cover. The silk was cut to size and I tacked the mezzotint down in the centre, going over the join with silver spangles. I pulled long threads from the frayed edges of the silk to use to sew it, as these were obviously going to be a perfect colour match. I sort-of did this bit with no real idea of how to construct it, other than knowing I needed to protect the cut edges, as the silk was fraying too easily. I stitched a channel down each side of the silk panel and ran some light blue silk floss through the channels, before joining the top and bottom and felling the seam. I would prefer to have had ribbon in the channels, but must needs; and I will eventually replace the floss.

To finish, I folded and pressed two long strips of silk and box-pleated them to the muff cover.

The mezzotint is of Theophila Palmer.

What the item is: Muff cover and base
The Challenge: Blue
Fabric: Wedgewood blue silk dupion, white cotton, poly satin [mezzotint]
Pattern: none; I made it up
Year: 1770s- 80s
Notions: cotton thread, spangles, silk twine for ties, silk thread unravelled from the fabric, wadding
How historically accurate is it? 85% [base is partially machine-sewn; wadding, mezzotint and spangles not HA materials; powerwoven dupion rather than taffeta]
Hours to complete: Approx. 12 [including dawdling]
First worn: Not worn yet! Hopefully at 18thC ball end of March
Total cost: Maybe £12 - £15, mainly the silk and the mezzotint. I had a lot of the other stuff already

A Quick Round-up

I am resolved to make more of an effort in the way of blog posts, but in the meantime here is a quick review of some of my more recent and more 'together' outfits.

The first is my middle-class Tudor clothing. For the past 6 years I have taken part in the Great Annual Recreation at Kentwell Hall, in Suffolk, UK. My first 4 were spent in the great kitchen, my 5th as a scrivener, and my 6th as housekeeper to the visiting gentry. Scrivening and housekeeping are a decided step up the social order from working in the kitchen, so I needed a suitable outfit. The year chosen last year was 1578.

The kirtle is khaki wool, with a stiffened bodice front, and it laces at the back. I used pelform as a substitute for buckram and it worked really well. It is worn over a linen smock and a linen petticoat. The gown is a soft, mid-grey wool. It fastens at the front with hooks and eyes. Lined with a fine linen, undyed. The sleeves are of high-quality black worsted wool. They are pinned to the short sleeves of the kirtle and the gown is worn over them.

Accessories: brown latchet shoes, linen hose, linen coif, linen ruff [pinned to gown neckline], black felt hat, belt. The ruff is not made entirely accurately - it's stacked box pleats rather than gathers. Mainly I did this because I find pleating far easier and quicker to do than gathering, but it has the added advantage of not needing to be starched to hold its shape. I also have some small wrist ruffs, but wasn't wearing them when this picture was taken.