June's Challenge theme is Favourite Technique. We are asking you to create something that makes use of your favourite sewing or embellishment technique. This should give plenty of scope for items to create!
One of the most basic ways to influence the look of the item you are making is with draping, pattern-manipulation, or tailoring. Clever cutting of garment pieces has been used for thousands of years to shape and mould a flat panel of fabric into interesting 3d shapes. The Herjolfsnes garments are one example of this. Found in Greenland during archaeological digs in the early 20thC, they display use of shaped panels under the arms and inserted gores to maximise fullness of the skirt while maintaining fit around the torso. Tailoring techniques grew and developed through time to a peak in the 18th and 19th centuries. Both men's and women's clothing made use of these techniques, such as the 18thC woman's riding habit, and the different forms of the male 3-piece suit.
Woman's riding habit, Italian, c.1780. M.82.16.2a-c, LACMA.
Perhaps you are a fan of handsewing, which can be used as a construction technique on its own or as decoration with a contrast thread. There are many specialist stitches which can be used in the construction and finishing of garments, from running backstitch and flat-felling to english stitch, le point a rabbatre sous la main, and mantua-maker's seam. The recent American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Clothing has a lovely visual guide to the roster of stitches known to be used in creating Georgian clothing, but many have provenances which go much further back in time and can be used in other historical periods.
Other handsewing techniques which may be used to enhance the appearance of a garment include smocking, pintucking, and gathering. This example, one of the so-called Sture shirts, shows extensive use of gathering at the neck and cuffs.
Shirt belonging to one of the Sture group executed in 1567. DIG024963, Upplandsmuseet (Sweden).
The use of purely decorative hand stitching known today as embroidery provides a wealth of creative opportunity and can be utilised on items both large and small. Naturalistic motifs, blackwork, corset flossing, goldwork, tambour - whether large scale or small, embroidery is a great way to add visual interest and liven up a piece.
From left: Tunic, 6th-7th Century, presumed Egyptian Coptic; 12.185.3, Met Museum / Coif and forehead cloth, 1600-1650, English; T.53&A-1947, V&A / Waistcoat, 1800-1815, Italian; 26.56.35 / Dressing gown, 1880s, Japanese for the western market; Fall 2018 Lot 537, Whitaker Auctions.
Applied decoration is another method seen throughout history and it covers a multitude, including rouleaux trim, braidwork, tablet weaving, ruffles, soutache, spangles and beads, ribbon trim, contrast bands and binding, piping, and passementerie... These can be placed on items large and small, and can be made of self fabric or another material. Tablet weaving is known to have existed as far back as the 8th century BCE (early Iron Age Europe), and the Torah contains directives for clothing to carry tassels or fringes. Beaded decoration is often found on the clothing of native peoples of the Americas.
I'm also going to include printing and painting as part of this category as in both of these a paint, ink, or other dye is applied to the fabric or item for aesthetic purposes. Wall paintings show Minoan textiles with intricate patterns that required both simple and complex weaving processes, embroidery, or painting. The eventual industrialisation of block printing and further innovations in this field led to roller-printed textiles becoming readily available in the mid-19th Century.
Tablet woven textile from the Oseberg ship burial, dated c. 834.
Finds of Roman shoes displaying a variety of cut lattice patterns in the Vindolanda Roman Army Museum.
One decorative approach which falls under many of the above categories is the use of lace. The early beginnings of lacemaking go as far back as 2500BCE, with development progressing over time from basic netted decorations to highly complex figurative work. Lace itself can be made by
embroidery, applique, cutwork, or a combination of these. It can be applied to items as a decorative flourish or integrated by use of lace insertion technique.
Point plat de Venise lace, mid-17th Century / early lace in a detail from Hans Memling's The Virgin and Child, c. 1485.
Pleating has been extensively used in the construction and/or decoration of garments from the ancient world up to the present. Ancient Egyptian and Greek garments made frequent use of pleating to service both appearance and fit. Victorian women's clothing shows highly creative use of pleating in overskirts and other garments.
Hopefully that gives you all an idea of the range of techniques that can be employed as part of this challenge! Good luck!
